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Kitchen Gardening

Growing and Harvesting Winter Lettuce

While lettuces are predominately a cool-weather crop, there are summer varieties available that don't disappoint.

Lettuce's colors are welcome in the winter garden.   Photo by bcballard under the Creative Commons Attribution License 2.0.

Lettuces are one of my favorite vegetables to grow in the cold months. Most gardeners will end up planting them in a cold frame, greenhouse, or hoop house through the winter – but I think it’s so worth the extra trouble.

I grow mine in a cold frame that husband extraordinaire made for me out of a huge glass door. It was originally meant for our house but turns out it came from the home of the Jolly Green Giant’s and our home works best for Polly Pocket. So, we gave the door new life as my cold frame.

If the sound of lettuce growing doesn’t thrill you, their looks will. There are so many varieties that bring color, texture, and oh yes – flavor. You’ll be amazed. Of course, before you plant any variety, you’ll want to do a tiny bit of research and see which do best in your area. Among them are oakleaf lettuces, icebergs, romaine, leaf lettuces, Bibbs, and butterheads. Lettuce comes in colors of light green, blue-green, red, deep purple, dark green, and even mottled colors are always a welcome sight in the winter garden.

Between the seed size and my impatience, I plant them with a semi-broadcast. I try to drop only a few down a row, but it’s so hard to tell where they end up. So, I pinch a bit of seed from my hand and sprinkle them down a line all willy-nilly. I lightly rake about 1/4″ – 1/2″  of soil over the top of them. I keep them watered and the glass overhead keeps the soil at a decent enough temperature to get them to germinate in about a week or two.

When the little seedlings reach 1″ tall, I use small scissors to thin them out. I try to space them about 5″-8″ apart. I’ll admit, if you’re mixing lettuce varieties, this part can be tricky. This is because romaine may need 10″ between each other while leaf lettuce may need only 8″, and Bibb 6″. The back of your seed packet will tell the story. I just clip the seedlings that are too close together down to the ground. I either leave them there to become part of the soil or toss them to the chickens. By the way, anyone with more patience than I would use them to sprinkle on their own salad.

Some lettuce varieties are ready to harvest so fast that it’ll only be a little over a month before it ends up in your salad bowl. Speaking of which, there are a couple of ways to go about harvesting lettuce. The first way is to take the outer leaves only which is the way of leaf lettuces, for sure. This nice thing about this type of harvesting is that the plant can continue to grow and you basically make salads straight from the bed. When you see a stem forming in the middle, the leaves will begin to taste bitter as the plant is beginning to bolt.

The second way is to harvest the entire lettuce head. Head lettuces like icebergs are obviously natural for this method. You simply wait until the head is mature, but still on the young side, and take the whole head of lettuce. Then there’s the cut-and-come-again method. When most of the leaves have grown to the right size for salads, but them at about an inch above the soil. The plants will re-grow and you’ll get one or two more harvests out of that head.

While lettuces are predominately a cool-weather crop, there are summer varieties available that don’t disappoint. They’re so easy to plant, grow, and harvest that I try to have lettuces in my garden every season.

Previous: Lettuce Grow All Summer Long Next: How to Grow Heading Lettuce
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Fruits and Vegetables

Fruits and Vegetables

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