An Online Extra to Fine Gardening Magazine

Plant Hunting in China: An Interview with Darrell Probst

by Jennifer Brown

 
Darrell Probst
"International Plant Exploration" is not something many people can put on their resume. Darrell Probst, author of "Up-and-Coming Epimediums" in the July/August 2001 issue of Fine Gardening, can include it on his list of experiences, along with plant breeding and running a specialty nursery. An expert on the genus Epimedium, Darrell made his first trip to China in 1996 to observe epimediums and other plants in their native habitat. He was quickly hooked, and has returned twice more to China, where he searches for undiscovered species of epimedium and gathers information about the plant's native habitat.

Epimediums deserve to be better known. These hardy, easy-to-grow perennials flourish in shade or part sun in zones 3-9. They generally have heart-shaped leaves and small nodding flowers in a wide range of colors. Some epimediums are evergreen.

We had the pleasure of working with Darrell just before his latest trip to China in the spring, so we asked him a few questions about what it's like to be a plant hunter. Although plant exploring sounds exotic, the reality is far from a Hollywood-type Indiana Jones adventure. Darrell gives us the details in the following interview, accompanied by photos from his trips. (For more information and photos of epimediums, visit Darrell's web site at http://home.earthlink.net/~darrellpro/.)

When was your first trip to China?
My first trip was in 1996, to Yunnan Province, around the cities of Dali, Lijian, and Zhongdian. Paul Jones from Duke Gardens organized it. There were 12 Americans, including Kim Hawks of Niche Gardens, Tony Avent of Plant Delights Nursery, and Dan Hinkley of Heronswood Nursery.

How do you get permission to collect plants in China?
To do it legally in China you need official permission and a guide, both usually obtained through trade relationships developed with someone working in a botanical institution there. It is very difficult and tedious, requiring patience, persistence, an ability to "go with the flow" and be able to make the best of it. It also takes time. You also need a driver (foreigners can't drive there, to my knowledge) and usually an interpreter.

How did you put together a trip of your own?
On my first trip in 1996, three of us (Dan Hinkley, Frank Bell and myself) stayed another two weeks and went to Sichuan. Mr. Ke-hua Mou of the Sichuan Research Institute of Forestry traveled with us as our "official" Chinese representative. I kept up correspondence with Mr. Mou, and in June 2000 he invited me to visit Sichuan again for 10 days in the fall. After studying maps and information I had on different "known" species, I sent him a proposed itinerary for a 30-day trip. He sent his stamp of approval a month later; in early October an "official invitation" from the Chinese government arrived, which Mr. Mou had orchestrated for me. This official invitation is a requirement for obtaining a business visa (as opposed to a tourist visa), which is necessary to collect and to travel and work in areas closed to foreigners. Mr. Mou also had to write for formal permission from local governments in those areas we wanted to explore. He organized everything in China -- hiring an interpreter (Joanna) and arranging for a driver (Mr. Su) from the Institute. I paid an up-front fee that covered all expenses in China for the entire trip except postage to mail things home. I purchased airline tickets on my own.

What role does the North American China Plant Exploration Consortium (NACPEC) play in your collecting?
NACPEC may give me location information about certain plants they found and sites they visited, but otherwise what I do is act as a "co-operator" with NACPEC. Any epimediums they collect are sent to me. I grow them and propagate them until there are enough to distribute an equal share of plants back to the 10 member institutions of NACPEC. Thereafter I can keep the living plants in my collection and am allowed to sell them.

Do you collect seeds or plants?
If at all possible, I collect seeds, which are much easier to transport, import (I have an import permit from USDA), and get to grow. Plants have to be handled very carefully, and can often die before they reach our shores. If customs is overloaded with imports, the plants can sit at customs for a week or more in the box. After that, if they're still alive, they may die once they're in my nursery. When I do collect plants, I take only tiny divisions (these take up less space and it's easier to get all the soil cleaned off them), and then only if there is a large enough population to support taking a division without harming the population. I do take herbarium specimens when I'm in the field, both for my own research and study and to give to the U. S. National Arboretum in Washington, D.C. for its herbarium. Everything I collect is mailed back so it goes through customs, under my import permit. Customs is not prepared to inspect seeds and plants that are carried back.

Do you plant hunt in nurseries, too?
Not in China because nurseries are limited and do not offer plants I'm interested in. I do so in Japan.

How do you determine where you might look for undiscovered species?
There are three ways, basically. One is by visiting herbariums here and abroad, studying the specimens they have. If something looks different, I'll try to visit the area it came from. Another is by talking with others who've explored. And third, I target areas where few people have explored but that have promising-looking habitats, like mountains, a range of elevations and of moisture levels, and a mix of wooded and field habitats.

On the hillside behind this smoke-enshrouded house, the author found a population of Epimedium fargesii.
 
Epimedium fargesii

How do you travel around when you visit China?
The first two visits we went by van, but the last one we traveled by Jeep Cherokee. The Jeep was more taxing on the body, but we were able to maneuver better on bad and remote roads.

Where do you stay? Do you remain in one location or move from place to place?
We stay in inexpensive local hotels. How much we move around depends on what my expectations are. If the area is really interesting, we may stay three to four nights, or longer, in one hotel, exploring in different directions each day. If I'm unfamiliar with an area, we may drive through it on the way to a more promising location, with a few stops en route to get a taste for what is there. If it's really interesting, then we either can stay longer on the current trip (and sacrifice visiting someplace else) or plan to return on another visit.

 
A species new to science, this epimedium was discovered near Chongqing in Sichuan Province. Its indented leaf veins turn deep purple in chilly weather.
What has been your most interesting discovery?
There have been two or three. A very narrow, long-leaved epimedium species (leaves 1/2 inch wide and 4 to 5 inches long) with especially spiny leaf margins and very floriferous. Another very vigorous, sturdy species with large, glossy leaves 8 inches long by 2 to 3 inches wide. It spreads 3 to 5 inches a year forming a dense mat in the wild. These both have yellow flowers. A third (photo below) with white or rose inner sepals and plum-purple spurs has a 15- to 18-inch long flower panicle and gorgeous long, dark green leaflets. There are deep indentations following the main veins, and these indented areas turn blood-purple after cold temperatures arrive.

How many more epimediums do you think are out there?
Twenty? Thirty? A hundred? It's hard to say. So many areas have yet to be explored; so many mountain ranges are out of reach, because there are no roads.

Are there other Americans exploring China for new plants? Do they usually focus on only one genus?
The answer to both questions is no. It's rare for a plant hunter to be devoted to just one genus. Most explorers are looking for many genera, and most are looking for woody plants. Plant explorers usually fall into one of two categories -- botanic garden representatives that go for research and/or to enrich their collections; and nurserymen/women who go for plants to propagate and sell. Both kinds of people usually love plants and love hunting for them. I'm unique in that I'm not connected with a botanic garden, but I go more for the former than the latter. Yes, I have a nursery that specializes in Epimediums, but I already have plenty of "new" things to sell. Eventually, though, some of what I collect will be available for sale.

People in horticulture can either generalize, make a living and give back little in the form of knowledge or making advancements; or they can specialize, really study a plant or a limited group of unknown or little known plants, share the knowledge gained, and give back a lot while hopefully making a living. Long ago I made a conscious decision to do the latter. I've worked with the genus Tricyrtis and now Epimedium. The pursuit of the latter is what led me to China, where there are many more Epimedium species than any other place on earth, with incredible diversity.

Tell us a memorable tale from one of your trips.
This has nothing to do with plants, but there's one overnight drive that will never be forgotten. It was November 15. We were told it would be a long drive, but not exactly how long. We had three successful stops traveling between one area and the next. We'd found the first really exciting new species of the trip (the one with the indented purple veins) on the second stop. As we climbed, it got wetter and cooler. About dark (5:30 p.m.) we began to see patches of snow, then it began snowing.

We were driving through real wilderness, wooded areas and very little cultivation. We stopped whenever we saw a person to make sure we were still on the right road. At around 11 p.m. (and no dinner), we stopped at a coal miners' camp and asked about the route, only to learn that we were given bad advice an hour before and were on the wrong road. We turned around on a one-lane, muddy, snowy mountain road in the dark. Looking over the downhill road edge, there was no view of land. We'd already gotten stuck twice. Anyway, we returned and got on the correct road, but it became so bad that, from about 1 a.m. on, we were going only 1 to 3 miles per hour. We got stuck a few more times in the deep muddy ruts, and had to get out and push.

 
It's a long and winding road to the next good plant hunting site. Think about having to turn around on a one-lane shelf road like this one in the middle of the night.
Finally, we pulled up behind a guy in a small pickup truck stuck in the middle of the one-lane road. Mr. Mou and Mr. Su thought the truck was abandoned, but after a while a head popped up; the driver had gone to sleep. So we dug out the front of his truck and pushed him out, then pushed our van through. We got close to our destination, only to get totally stuck ourselves at 6 a.m. We went to sleep for half an hour, then a dump truck pulled up and after several attempts, pulled us out. We reached our destination at 8:30 a.m. We had dinner/breakfast and went to bed for the day.

I guess the most fascinating plant collection story was from a site near the capitol city of Chengdu. I gave Mr. Mou and Mr. Su two days off to rest and be with family while Joanna (my translator) and I took a taxi, a bus, and then another taxi to what was supposed to be a temple. I had seen a herbarium specimen that looked a bit different. "In the woods surrounding the temple" was the site information given for it. The second taxi driver knew exactly where to go. He dropped us off, and would be back in two hours, giving us time to climb and explore.

As soon as he left, we learned from locals that this was the wrong temple; the only thing here was a cemetery. So we found a phone and called the taxi driver; he arrived back in 45 minutes. After long discussions and having to pay a premium because of the bad road to this next temple, we were off again. As we approached the temple area, we learned from the driver this was now a military base; the temple was long gone. Almost at the peak of a small mountain where the temple had been, we saw the Epimediums everywhere.

The driver let us out and said he would turn around at the top and meet us down the road. His parting words to Joanna were, "Don't let anyone see you, foreigners aren't allowed here." So she told me to hurry and said to hide if I heard anyone coming. I could hear walkie-talkies everywhere. I walked straight back down to the taxi. No driver.

I waited out of the way, off the road, only to notice a military guard waiting by the taxi a few minutes later, so I walked back. He tried to talk to me, but neither of us could understand the other's language. Fifteen minutes passed and the driver returned and went to let me in the car, but he'd locked the keys in car. Five minutes later he got the door open, and let me sit inside while he talked with the guard (the taxi driver didn't speak English either).

Another 45 minutes went by; still no Joanna. I was seriously worried she was getting interrogated somewhere about why she led this foreigner here. Another 15 minutes went by, and she popped down off the hillside with a bag of Epimedium leaves, smiling. She walked to the car and got in, the driver got in and we left. I asked where she had been. She said she had told the driver to wait for two hours, so she was early. She never told me that tidbit of information -- only to "hurry"!

Describe a typical day of plant hunting.
Up between 3 and 5 a.m., process collections/herbarium specimens/notes until 7. Out for breakfast, return to retrieve belongings and on the road by 8 (it's hard to get any food or breakfast earlier than 7 a.m.). Drive from populated town/small city into mountains, stopping every other intersection for directions from someone walking by for the route to take us in the direction we want to go, because there are no road signs outside of large cities. Drive 1 to 2 hours, usually climbing in elevation on winding, curving roads, always looking for plants.

If we stop because somebody saw plants, then we get out of the van with our collecting vests on (lightweight photographer's vests with many pockets). We begin studying the plants, walk through the area to get an understanding of population size and variation. If it's a large population, we gather a few examples that demonstrate the scope of the variation. We're usually not at a site more than an hour or two, then it's on to the next location.

If we stop because the site looks promising, then we scan the area briefly. If we see nothing there, then we move on within 5 to 15 minutes. We stop for lunch at a local roadside restaurant between noon and 3 p.m., then continue to explore. We usually visit 3 to 5 sites per day.

 
China boasts the largest and most diverse population of Epimediums, and areas like this promise good plant hunting -- a range of elevation and moisture levels, and diverse habitats, including woods and open fields.
We amble back to the hotel between 7 and 10 p.m., depending on how far away we got, usually by backtracking the route we came as there is rarely a "loop" route back to the same town. Dinner is at a restaurant en route or at the hotel. Then we process collections/herbarium specimens/notes until 11 p.m. or midnight, then sleep for a few hours and start all over again the next day.

Road construction or repairs and washed-out bridges are a constant deterrent to getting to the place you want to go. Sometimes you wait an hour or more for the road to open, realizing that you just have to come back through the same delay to get back to the hotel. Even new highways under construction are open to traffic if you can actually reach a destination on it. These "waits" are handled with ease by the Chinese, who pull up, shut the engine off and take a nap. To someone like me, who sees the minutes ticking away on a rare and expensive opportunity to see plants I have waited years for, these delays can be very frustrating, but to no avail -- so I catch a few winks, as well.

One month is a long time to be away. Does it get tiring?
These trips are absolutely exhausting, due to lack of sleep, hard climbing at times, seriously wounded and swollen hands due to the excessive amount of thorny plants, in addition to the typical wear and tear of traveling. It usually takes a considerable amount of time to recover back home. But when you love certain plants, plant hunting, meeting the people and being in the countryside every day is like a dream come true and you don't want it to end. But if you're an American, it has to end because in China you're a foreigner and without special extensions being granted, 30 days is all you're allowed to stay.

As a nursery owner, a month is a very long time to be away -- especially since the best times to be in China are also the busiest times of the year in our field of work. Leaving only condenses the "busy time" into being even busier. But it is worth it. Probably not financially as it causes a serious strain on the business, especially when you are the primary staff person with a limited amount of part time help, But in terms of knowledge, there is no substitute for what you can learn by seeing plants in their native habitat, where they have spent thousands and maybe millions of years evolving to best adapt to the site they find themselves in. Unlike animals, plants can't just simply walk away from changes to their environment. They have to adjust, adapt, and evolve.

One more question - what did you eat?
Lots of delicious food. My hosts quickly figured out what I like and what I didn't, and made sure there were always a few dishes I liked. Breakfast was often noodles -- rice, wheat or sweet potato noodles (the latter were translucent when cooked) -- or dumplings (what we call Peking dumplings or ravioli), often very hot and spicy (we were in Sichuan, after all). There were also pastries, peanuts or cashews, hundred- (or is it thousand-?) year eggs, and more. Breakfast was eaten at the hotel if it had a restaurant, or at streetside.

Lunch and dinner were usually six to eight dishes -- veggies and meats (pork, chicken, or beef). Mr. Mou and Mrs. liked "parts," so they would often order stomach lining, lungs, brain, etc., for themselves, and things like pork and broccoli or something like hash-brown pancakes for me, as well as noodle dishes and fish. The fish we ate was very diverse and always fresh.

 
Most meals are eaten in open-fronted roadside restaurants like this one.
The strangest thing I ate on the 2000 trip was turtle, which I had never had. On the 1996 trip we had wasp larvae (delicious -- like fried mushrooms), Rhododendron blossoms, and pine needles. On both trips, lotus root and Houttuynia rhizomes were common dishes. Rice was often only brought out at the end of the meal or if we asked for it. I took along chocolates, and hard candy like Werther's Originals for us (me and Mou, Su, and Joanna) to eat during the ride and to hand out to children. That was a big hit and always brought out smiles -- that is, if they weren't just staring at you, the strange foreigner.

All photos by Darrell Probst, except author photo by Karen Probst.


An Online Extra to Fine Gardening #80
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