Match the eggplant to the recipe
An arch of concrete reinforcing wire makes a sturdy support for maturing eggplants and provides a perfect frame to support row covers to keep out pests or to warm the plants.
I always grow enough, and enough variety, that I have the eggplants I need for just the dish I want to eat. Caponata, a bold Italian combination of eggplant, tomatoes, onion, capers, olive oil, and vinegar, looks much more vibrant with a white-skinned eggplant. ‘Casper’, ‘White Beauty’, ‘White Sword’, or any of the other white eggplants work well. Using purple-skinned eggplants can create a muddy effect.
Baba ghanoush, a grilled eggplant purée with sesame paste and garlic, and hunkar begendi, a roasted eggplant purée with kasseri cheese, also benefit from using white-skinned eggplant. The light color makes the purée more appealing and better shows off any garnishes.
Grilled eggplant steaks are best with firm-fleshed fruits 4 to 6 inches in diameter. They hold up on the grill and look substantial on the plate. These larger varieties are also best for papoutsakia, a classic Greek stuffed and baked eggplant dish. Musakka, baked eggplant with tomato, béchamel, and cheese, may be made with many sizes of eggplant, although the large round slices are easier to work with and hold a nice shape. ‘New York Improved’, ‘Harris Special High Bush’, ‘Pompano Pride’, ‘Fort Myers Market’ and ‘Listada de Gandia’ are excellent choices when large eggplants are needed. They have the added advantage of performing well in most areas of the United States.
For marinated eggplant you want to preserve, the eggplant must be sliced to fit conveniently in a jar. The job is made much easier if the eggplant is the same diameter as a pint-size canning jar. The slices will stack easily and fit neatly in the jar, which will make retrieving unbroken pieces to serve much easier. Any variety that will fit inside a wide-mouth, pint-size canning jar will work well. My favorite is ‘Rosita’, not only for size but also for its beautiful lavender-pink color and mild flavor. ‘Diamant’, an early purple variety from Russia, is an excellent choice in cooler climates.
The long, skinny Asian eggplants are perfect for stir-frying. Neat, round, 1- to 2-inch-diameter slices make preparation and cooking easy. No fancy knife work is necessary, and the pieces can easily be cut to a uniform size for fast and even cooking. The pieces are also a perfect size to pick up with chopsticks.
‘Taiwan Pingtung Long’, ‘Slim Jim’, ‘Thai Green’, and ‘Waimanalo Long’ are all great stir-fry varieties that are well adapted to most regions of the United States. Long Asian eggplants are also perfect for drying. The thinly sliced rounds dry quickly and are very uniform. I grind dry rounds in a coffee grinder that I use only for herbs, and store the powder in a clean glass jar. I like to use it as a thickener or subtle flavoring for purées, stocks, and stews.