Combine opposing elements within plantings
I like to grow a variety of plants and to use a broad color palette. Both of my 28-foot-long borders are planted informally and asymmetrically, and each has its own color scheme. But unity is achieved by a careful limiting of the color palettes within specific areas and by balancing the overall informality with some formal elements. I’ve used small trees and clipped boxwood and myrtle balls to divide each of the borders into three sections. The unifying theme of my entire garden is fruit, and each border has two trees.
The south-facing border has an orange tree and a pomegranate tree.I call this my “hot” border, with each section consisting of three colors: The first section is purple, red, and orange, with red roses dominating; the second is orange, yellow, and blue, with the orange tree dominating; and the third is orange, yellow, and red, with the pomegranate tree as the star.
The north-facing border, which includes an apple tree, is my “cool” border. There’s lots of white, pink, and burgundy here, but it gets lively at one end where a persimmon tree balances the pomegranate on the opposite side and a yellow-orange rose (Rosa ‘Lady Forteviot’, USDA Hardiness Zones 5–9) covers the portal adjacent to it.
On both sides, I include plants with burgundy, chartreuse, and gray foliage. These recurring colors—along with the repetition of roses, fruit, and spiky plants on both sides—help connect the contrasting color schemes. Another design trick is to use a single color in a section of a border— say, 6 feet square or larger—but with different flower shapes. In one area, I have red roses underplanted with Penstemon ‘Firebird’ (Zones 7–10). Another planting design strategy I use is to pair plants with starkly different forms that have something in common. A favorite combination is purple fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum ‘Atropurpureum’, Zones 9–10) with brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia triloba, Zones 4–9); the eye of the brown-eyed Susan is the same color as the grass.
In complex plantings, I find it helps to start with one or two key plants and then build combinations around them all the way down to the ground covers. Then I move on to the next section, picking something from the first section (a color, a plant, or a shape) to include in the second grouping, and so on. This helps keep a border from having too much contrast, which can seem visually jarring.
The possibilities for using opposing elements in a garden go on and on— hard against soft, white or gray foliage against green foliage, fine texture against coarse. A combination at the entrance to my pergola has all these: bold, spiky, gray-and-white agaves in an ornate concrete urn next to a finetextured clipped boxwood ball in a simple terra-cotta pot. It’s a vignette that epitomizes my fondness for well-placed opposites.
Hot: The author’s “hot” border (above) is dominated by plants in shades of red, orange, and yellow.
Cool: A “cool” border (above) sits across the lawn and features pink, white, and burgundy plantings.
Formal/ Informal: The rounded shape of a clipped boxwood contrasts with the untamed form of an agave.